Hi guys! I decided to make a video tutorial today on my everyday look. I have deep set eyes that are hooded. It means that the skin around my eyebrows covers up the majority of my eyelid when I rest my face completely. This means the only way my eyelids are fully seen is when I close my eyes, am looking down, or I arch my eyebrows. This is a fairly common trait, and my friend mentioned today that she also has them. I decided to help her and other hood-eyed people out, I’d show everyone how I personally tackle the trait. I only use three colours on my eyelid in this tutorial, and while I use neutral colours, you can use any colours you want as long as you have a light shade, a medium shade, and a dark shade.
Remember folks, use a eyeshadow primer before using eyeshadow. Not only does it prevent creasing, but shadows apply smoother and brighter on top of them. They can also minimize fall out of eyeshadow. If you do not have an eyeshadow primer, a liquid concealer will do in a pinch.
Step One: Cream Shadow
I usually put NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk on my eyes before doing anything with my makeup, even if it’s neutral. I find it brightens even neutral shadows so that they look like they do in the pot. You can skip this step if you don’t own one of these, or if you want a substitute, a white pencil liner will do. Make sure to blend it out. Even though you are covering it up, there’s a chance you could see a harsh line under the pigment.
Step Two: Lightest Shade
What I’m using in the video for my lightest shade is Urban Decay’s “Righteous” from their limited edition Pulp Fiction palette. It isn’t available anymore, however I figured I’d use this palette for the look because colours like these aren’t too difficult to come by. The lightest shade goes on your eyelid and brow bone. Make sure to get even the innermost corner of your eyelid when doing this.
Step Three: Middle Shade
My middle shade is “Tyranny” from the same Urban Decay palette. With hooded eyes, I personally like doing a pseudo cut-crease look, because for the most part the eye lid is covered by the “hood” from the brow bone. When the lid is exposed (blinking, looking down, eyebrows raised, etc) the light shade all over the eyelid looks super polished and unexpected. So for the middle shade, I make sure it does not end up on the actual eye lid. You need to be familiar with where your crease is to do this. If you aren’t sure, look slightly down into a mirror, and you should see a crease line. If you don’t see one, feel around your eye area for where your brow bone ends. This is another good indicator of where your crease is. Apply your middle shade around the outside of that line and blend OUT only. Make sure the colour is blended well, and if it reaches up to your brow bone, apply more of the lightest shade after to clean it up.
Step Four: Darkest Shade
My dark shade is “Vengeance” from, yet again, the Pulp Fiction Palette from Urban Decay. I apply a smaller amount of this on top of the middle colour and try to concentrate it most in close to the crease. It will need to be blended out as well. These darker colours outside the lid serve as a nice shadow that hooded lids tend to lack.
Step Five: Fixing it Up!
Even if you don’t think you got any of your two darker shades onto your actual lid, quickly run the light shade back and forth across your lid AFTER you’ve applied your other colours. It’ll polish up the crease line. Do the same thing for your eyebrows if your dark colours are touching your brows.
Step Six: Black Shadow on Lash Line
You may wonder why I use black shadow instead of a pencil or gel liner. I personally have trouble with my under eye makeup smudging and running away. I personally find that powder stays in place for a much longer time than either gel or pencil liner. The eyeshadow I’m using is “Furious” from the Urban Decay Pulp Fiction Palette. I always start at the outer corner of my eyes and blend inward on the lash line. I find it opens up the eye area a lot, and balances out the shadow on top. If you don’t want to go for something so dramatic, use the darkest shade of your original three on the bottom lash line instead. To open up the eye area further, I put the NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in “Milk” on my water line. It’s a simple illusion that makes your eyes look bigger.
Step Seven: Upper Liner
I’m not going to lie, I don’t normally use gel liner. I have in the past, I like it, but it isn’t my go to. The only one I had on hand was in the Smashbox Be Discovered holiday palette from 2011. It still works fantastically, thank goodness. I wanted to use gel for this because my friend who I was talking about with hooded eyes uses mainly gel liner, and isn’t super comfortable with top liner. My advice on liners, no matter if its gel, pencil, or liquid, the smaller and stiffer the tip, the easier it’s going to be to apply. I used a very small I found from ELF (I believe they came with the matte pigments they used to sell) and I found it very easy to apply. The trick is to start somewhere in the middle and do small lines. If it doesn’t end up as crisp looking as you want, connect the small lines up afterwards with a bigger swoop. Make sure you don’t move too fast, because upper liner is easy to mess up. To line my upper water lash line, I personally blink on the brush with my pupil pointed as far away as it can be from the brush. I will be releasing the whole eyeliner part of this video in the future, with more commentary and a full blog post about it.
Step Eight: Lashes
I think this is pretty self explanatory. I used Guerlain Maxi Lash on the top, and YSL Baby Doll on the bottom. The reason I used different ones is I hate the look that big brushes give me on my bottom lashes, and I’d rather use the small, rubber ones like the YSL Baby Doll Mascara has. Take your time doing mascara, folks. If you put a little more time into it you’ll have less clumps. If you get some mascara on your skin, wait until it dries to take it off. It’ll leave less mess.
That’s all, folks!
I did the rest of my makeup in the background of my final words. I wanted to keep this an eye tutorial, but it’s only fair to show you guys what products I used for the rest of my finished look. So here we go;
Too Faced Milk Chocolate Soleil for contour
Mac Mineralize Skinfinish in Lightscapade for highlight
NARS Blush in Deep Throat from the Guy Bourdin palette for blush
NYX Eyebrow Cake Powder in Taupe/Ash for eyebrows
Too Faced Melted Liquified Long Wear Lipstick in Melted Peony for lips
***My foundation was done before video. I use Belletto Studio Ultimate Airbrush System and my colour is FY1 “Creme De La”
What do you guys think? Do you have hooded eye lids? If so, how do you tackle them? Leave your comments below!